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 Finding the best place for a new plant Make sure you leave enough room for the plant to grow - an azalea that quickly grows to 8 feet wide will become a maintenance nightmare it planted 3 feet away from the house. When you buy a plant, be sure to ask how tall and wide it will be after 5 to 10 years of growth, and plan accordingly. Make sure your plant gets the right amount of sunlight in summer. Most plants bloom best with at least 6 hours of direct sunlight, though some, such as azaleas and camellias, grow best with some shade in the afternoon. In general, avoid low spots that collect water. Because of Mobile's high rainfall, many plants may be killed by excess soil moisture. Nursery plants grown in containers can be planted any month of the year in Mobile For best success, however, you should concentrate most of your planting efforts in late fall and winter, from October through February . Fall and winter planting assures that shrubs, tree and perennials have a long period of mild temperatures and moist soil conditions in which to establish themselves. Shrubs and trees planted in late spring and summer will need extra attention and frequent watering while they are getting established. Early spring-flowering bulbs such as jonquils and snowdrops are sold in late summer and fall, and should be planted in fall. Preparing the Soil Most plants adapt readily to Mobile soils, as long as the soil does not stay wet and has plenty of organic matter (humus) in it. Organic matter can be added to the soil in the form of finely shredded pine bark mulch, well-rotted leaves or commercial "soil conditioners'. Shrubs such as azaleas and camellias require well-drained, humus-rich soil, but virtually all shrubs and perennials will benefit from additions of organic matter. For each small shrub, mix several heaping shovelfuls of humus into the soil before planting. Peat moss has few benefits as a soil additive unless mixed with copious quantities of coarse organic matter, such as pine bark mulch. A 3 to 6- inch layer of organic matter over the top of the soil is just as important - this serves as a mulch, keeping the soil cool and moist, preventing weeds and promoting beneficial soil organisms. Rotted leaves, pine bark mulch or pine straw all work well. Trees generally don't benefit from mixing humus into the soil - apply the humus as a surface mulch instead. How to dig a hole and plant Because most plants have shallow, wide-spreading roots, the depth of the planting hole is not nearly as important as the width. It's better to plant shrubs and perennials in large, well-prepared and weed-free beds, so that roots have plenty of room to grow without having to compete with lawn grasses. The planting hole should be a little deeper than the pot the plant is growing in, and at least three times as wide. When planted, the base of the plants should sit slightly higher than the surrounding ground. Before covering the roots of the plant with soil, be sure to score the root ball in several places to encourage roots to grow into surrounding soil. How to water Newly planted trees and shrubs need careful watering the first year - sometimes once a week during dry spells. Shrubs that have been in the ground for a year or more are generally resistant to moderate dry spells. Water these plants only during extended dry spells, or whenever the plant leaves look droopy in the early morning hours. Excess irrigation can kill established plants. Using a mulch will greatly reduce the amount of watering you have to do. How to fertilize Most shrubs benefit from occasional fertilization, but be careful not to overdo it. In general, do not fertilize any plant the first year after planting. Most established shrubs benefit from a cup or two of cottonseed meal scattered around the base of the plant in late April or May. Use commercial fertilizers carefully, and in conjunction with a soil test. In very poor soils, young tees may also benefit from occasional, light fertilization, though a good, broad mulch is generally more important to plant growth. How to use lime Mobile soils are usually acidic, which is good for most shrubs and trees. If soil tests show that your yard is highly acidic, you may need to reduce the acidity by adding some lime. Roses and perennials, in particular, usually appreciate the addition of moderate amounts of lime. But be careful: Excess lime can be damaging to azaleas, camellias and many other Southern shrubs. Use the recommendations on the soil test as a guide. Soil test kits are available through the Auburn University Extension Service. Controlling pests Plants included in the Mobile Color by the Yard list were chosen because they're fairly resistant to pest damage in Mobile. If the plants are offered decent, well-drained soil, appropriate sunlight or shade, a mulch and some water during extended dry spells, insects and disease are not likely to cause serious damage. If insecticides or horticultural oils are used, be sure to apply on the underside as well as the topside of the leaf. Always read the label carefully before applying any insecticide or oil. Some common pests and their controls: Aphids - common on new growth: beneficial insects usually control them before they do serious damage: insecticidal soap is an effective control Scale - a problem on camellias; use lightweight horticultural oils - often called summer oils" - to control them. White flies - a problem on citrus; use insecticidal soap or summer oils. Caterpillars - if large, handpick with gloves; very small worms can be effectively controlled with a "Bt" insecticide Root rot - make sure soil drains and dries out between watering; add plenty of humus when planting Lacebugs - insecticidal soaps or horticultural oils are effective controls. | January | February | March | April | May | June | | Fall Blooming Azaleas| |